Although the oceans occupy more than two-thirds of the planet, the places where perfect waves roll in can only be counted on the fingers of one hand on a country scale. But when it comes to world-class waves, the list narrows even further. And when we talk about the best and most beautiful wave in the world, then all eyes are on Teahupoo, an extraordinary wave that rolls off the coral reef of the peninsula of Tahiti.

The most beautiful wave on the planet

With its ferocious tube, its horseshoe shape, and its gargantuan dimensions, the Teahupoo wave is the most coveted wave on the planet. It is massive, and mythical but also one of the most dangerous and difficult waves to tame on the surfing planet.

Deciphering the Teahupoo wave

First of all, there is the very long swell, a typical phenomenon of the Pacific Ocean. Then the wave is not only visible on the surface. It is also quite deep. And when it approaches the coral reef, it rises suddenly without forming a peak. In other words, it is the whole wave that rises to form a wall. One expects to see this wall breaking all at once, while in fact, it unfolds, and moreover, it offers to the most courageous surfers a huge tube. And it is this phenomenon that confuses and impresses newcomers.

Teahupoo is a legendary wave

When the wind is blowing towards the south, we can see the waves coming relatively well, especially the big series. But when the wind turns to the southwest, the reading of the waves becomes more complex. Because the big waves rise suddenly, just a little before the place where they are supposed to start to roll.

A unique tubular wave

What is very disturbing about the Teahupoo wave is above all its speed. As soon as the surfer starts to paddle, he has to engage totally in the wave, almost without control. Unlike many other waves, you can’t control the start or refuse to enter the wave at the last minute.

Indeed, to avoid being crushed by the huge lip of this tubular wave, you have to escape the first third of the wave as quickly as possible. Because it is this part that will fold in 180 degrees to form a tube, the queen figure of surfing. The slope of the wave will keep an inclination of 45 degrees throughout its course on the coral reef with very little depth, no more than one meter.

Then, once the start is successful, you have to settle on a trajectory and put some weight on the front foot to gain maximum speed. All this while being on a trajectory that is neither too high (so as not to be thrown out of the wave) nor too low (so as not to be crushed by the lip of Teahupoo).

After having escaped the first third of the wave and having ideally positioned yourself, you will have to move forward at least as fast as the breaker, in order not to be “locked in” by the wave. The risk is to place yourself too much on the inside to have the advantage over the other surfers but to be unable to catch the tubular section which unfolds relatively faster in comparison with the other waves of the planet. And therefore when you don’t get out of the tube you are good for a few laps in this huge washing machine. And it is generally at this moment that the problems begin. Indeed, if a wave is tubular it is simply because there is very little deep. But in Teahupoo, there is almost no bottom (sometimes less than one meter) and it is extremely sharp.

One of the biggest waves in the world

When the most beautiful wave in the world breaks, it means that the swell is huge. We speak then of code red. From 5 meters the wave becomes even faster and it becomes almost impossible to take it by rowing. This is when the jet skis take over and the towed surfing specialists enter the scene (the tow-in).

Their boards are generally smaller and up to 5 times heavier. Finally, straps allow the surfers to stay well secured on their board. Putting wax would not bring much.

The bomb and the Code Red, the local specialties

From time to time a wave bigger than the others breaks suddenly. The locals nickname this type of wave: “the Bomb”. These huge waves literally explode a little bit before the reef and surprise the people who are on the water. Both the surfers on their boards and the spectators on the boats. It is not uncommon to see scenes of panic when the Bomb unfolds.

The code red is the weather forecast that everyone is waiting for. A strong swell oriented well in front of the spot and a relatively weak or even non-existent wind makes the wave perfectly smooth. At the announcement of the code red, the small world of the big surfers enters in ebullitions and nothing seems to have importance anymore. If this wave was not so dangerous it would drive a good part of the surfing amateurs crazy.

The legend of the wind girl and the king of Teahupoo

It is said that centuries ago a woman walked on the water. The Polynesians saw her practicing the ancestor of surfing. But a jealous king decided to kill this woman to monopolize her art. But his crime would not go unpunished, as he would eventually be murdered by his brother. The daughter of the wind was avenged. Today the wave of Teahupoo continues to celebrate this queen of the wind who disappeared in a tragic way.

Thanks to the most beautiful wave in the world, Princess Vehiatua i Te Matai reigns for eternity over Polynesian surfing.

Thanks : Tahiti Tourisme & Gaëlle Perrin Communication