When you arrive in Ushuaia by boat, the show is absolutely fabulous and confusing. This southern city speaks to the imagination of all generations. Stopping in Ushuaia, a town at the end of the world, along the Beagle Channel, a stone’s throw from Cape Horn, is a bit like a dream. But it is above all a starting point for adventure. A city that lies at the foot of the mountain, on the edge of Patagonia and the Beagle Channel in the heart of Tierra del Fuego.
Ushuaia city at the end of the world
When you arrive in Ushuaia, whether by plane or by boat, you are seduced by the view and the setting, but the closer you get and the more you understand that decades of mass tourism have, little by little, disfigured the city of Ushuaia. But be reassured, when we move away from the city centre, this city at the end of the world is beautiful. When you stop in Ushuaia, it is, therefore, better to avoid the main street. Indeed this one has turned into a vast shopping mall over time. Fortunately, there are exact addresses such as a small café discovered by chance, look for it.
Stopover in Ushuaia
Due to its location very south of the South American continent, Ushuaia is a city of relatively intense passage. Here we meet sailors, tourists and cruise passengers who are either discovering Antarctica or sailing in Tierra del Fuego to Chile.
And then there are the travellers of passage. Those who have dreamed of going to the very south of the continent to spend a few days there. They find themselves in a city where no one is waiting for them and where all the great sites are just a few hours or days away by car. And where the cost of living is high.
You will have understood it, Ushuaia is a stopover city. We stop there for a few hours or a few days before setting off again in a more beautiful way. If you are looking for a city where you can rest for a few days, you may have to go to Chile. To cities further north like Valparaiso or San Pedro de Atacama. Backpacker cities where you disembark without really knowing when you are going to leave. And where you can live for 40 or 50 dollars a day.
This is the view you get when you leave the airport in Ushuaia. A vast city built at the foot of a small mountain range. Where you can even discover a glacier.
Welcome to Tierra del Fuego
When you move away from a little from the centre, you discover the outskirts of the city. Modest houses mostly occupy these with wooden cladding for better insulation. And then from time to time, we find out some residential areas that remind us that Argentina is a country crossed by substantial inequalities. It is undoubtedly not a Brazilian scenario, but the middle class still lives in a relatively modest way.
In terms of security, there is nothing to worry about. Argentina is a relatively safe country, even its capital. Buenos Aires is a very welcoming city. It is even called the little Paris. Ushuaia is therefore like its capital, a town even calmer and more peaceful crossed it is right by many visitors.
Join the city of Ushuaia
Transportation, plane or bus?
The air route is necessarily the preferred one. The road from Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile can be incredibly long and tiring. If you choose the bus, we advise you to take the first class. The vast majority of buses in Latin America have a second floor where the seats are entirely extended. A bit like in a first-class plane. It is a rather pleasant experience to live, especially since the extra cost of the first class is really and strangely very modest.
The Argentinean tourist visa (90 days)
What is fantastic about Argentina is that it is a visa-free country for the French. (but also for European, Swiss and Canadian nationals).
Therefore, when you arrive at the customs, you will be systematically stamped with a stamp that authorizes you to stay for three long months on the Argentine territory. And if you should ever have to keep up a little longer in this part of the world, you could pass through to Chile where the same system will be waiting for you. As soon as you enter Chile, a Chilean customs officer will stamp your entry and allow you to stay for 90 days. If after a few days in Chile you decide to return to Argentina, you will be allowed to wait for another 90 days. (Please be aware that the legislation may change – check the official websites or the tour operators before you leave).
So you will have understood, even if Ushuaia is your goal, it is better to stay two or three nights to avoid spending too much budget on this stage. And mostly it is necessary to foresee a small envelope to be able to leave in expedition whether it is by boat around Ushuaia or a group expedition for a day to the natural parks.
photo credits: Yann Vernerie
Thanks: Australis, an exploration company, specialized in navigation in Tierra del Fuego.